Synthetic data generators and machine learning models can memorize their
training data, posing privacy concerns. Membership inference attacks (MIAs) are
a standard method of estimating the privacy risk of these systems. The risk of
individual records is typically computed by evaluating MIAs in a
record-specific privacy game. We analyze the record-specific privacy game
commonly used for evaluating attackers under realistic assumptions (the
\textit{traditional} game) -- particularly for synthetic tabular data -- and
show that it averages a record's privacy risk across datasets. We show this
implicitly assumes the dataset a record is part of has no impact on the
record's risk, providing a misleading risk estimate when a specific model or
synthetic dataset is released. Instead, we propose a novel use of the
leave-one-out game, used in existing work exclusively to audit differential
privacy guarantees, and call this the \textit{model-seeded} game. We formalize
it and show that it provides an accurate estimate of the privacy risk posed by
a given adversary for a record in its specific dataset. We instantiate and
evaluate the state-of-the-art MIA for synthetic data generators in the
traditional and model-seeded privacy games, and show across multiple datasets
and models that the two privacy games indeed result in different risk scores,
with up to 94\% of high-risk records being overlooked by the traditional game.
We further show that records in smaller datasets and models not protected by
strong differential privacy guarantees tend to have a larger gap between risk
estimates. Taken together, our results show that the model-seeded setup yields
a risk estimate specific to a certain model or synthetic dataset released and
in line with the standard notion of privacy leakage from prior work,
meaningfully different from the dataset-averaged risk provided by the
traditional privacy game.